Advantium Oven Repair -- F3 error --

Well, you would think for $2400, you'd get a quality microwave that would pretty much last till the 22nd century... well, you'd be wrong. Our GE Advantium Oven ( ZSC2001FSS02 ) started beeping and whining after two years like it'd been hit with a sharp stick. Plus it would just show -- F3 -- , the error code. Fortunately, this is a common problem, as evidenced by LOTS of Google hits on this code. F3 is a "keypad error". Hmm.. recall anyone?

Anyways... I was off to www.partselect.com and this diagram. I ordered drawing #68 (GE part # WB07X10680) for about $127 with shipping, and it came in two days. Wow! That's service. I think GE wanted a $160 bucks plus $11 shipping... but I've had great luck with partselect.com, so they win my business. Good return policy, too.

Here's the step by step for the DIY guy'r'gal. All you need is a magnetized long philips screwdriver, a soft surface, and a friend who can afford the oven if they drop it. :)

CLICK ON THE PICS TO ENLARGE THEM.

1. Turn off the circuit breaker first, then remove the unit from the wall, with a tall support platform in front due to armored electrical cable which prevents moving it far from it's cubby hole.














2. Remove the top panel (multiple screws). Tilt the panel'r rear edge upwards to disengage the panel's front lip.

3. Remove the four screws holding the stainless keypad panel to the oven















4. To fully remove the stainless keypad panel, lift it up off the support posts















5. Disconnect the black/white wire bundle from the main electrical board at the back of the oven, so you can fully remove the stainless keypad panel from the oven.















6. Remove the stainless keypad assembly with wiring from the oven and place upside down on a padded towel to avoid scratching the old (and the new) stainless keypad assembly.

7. Remove the knob from its post... careful and slow... it's REALLY on there. I was able to use my fingers only...but it was a workout.

8. Remove the three screws holding the rotary knob circuit board from the black plastic base. (This will allow you to remove the black base from the stainless keypad surround.















9. Disconnect the flat ribbon cable by pulling outward on the black plastic sleeve. (You might want to practice re-inserting it... and see how far in it really has to go to bottom out and be firmly inserted.)















10. Remove the three screws holding the black base to the stainless keypad surround, and remove the black base... it is held in place by a small metal tab under just to the side of where the rotary knob circuity board was prior to you removing it.















11. Remove the four brackets from the old stainless surround and save for the next step.














12. Now get your new keypad and stainless surround, lay it on the soft towel, and mount the old four brackets to the new piece.

13. Now reverse install everything. Remember, the black plastic base that holds the display will NOT go back into the new part if the knob shaft is installed... the rotary knob shaft/circuit board has to be re-attached *AFTER* you mount the black plastic base onto the new keypad stainless surround assembly.

14. Reverse install everything and then power up the circuit breakers. Make sure you put the top back on to avoid electrical shock.

15. The display should completely light up (all pixels) for about 15 seconds, and then you set the clock when it appears. If you can set the clock... you are good to go. If things don't light up, turn off the circuit breakers, and check ALL your connections are tight... especially the ribbon cable and the two wire bundles to the main circuit board.

Good luck...it takes about 45 minutes (and that's going nice'n'easy pace). If it doens't work... just call for GE service. :)
















Cheers,
Matt